Acids in Skincare | Esthetician-Approved Guide for Safe Use
What Are Skincare Acids?
Acids, such as AHAs, BHAs, and PHAs, are ingredients used to improve texture, unclog pores, and support a smoother, more even-looking complexion. In Asian skincare, “acids” can also refer to non-exfoliating treatment acids that target concerns like pigmentation, redness, and post-acne marks without acting as traditional exfoliants.
Benefits of Skincare Acids
- Improve the look of texture and unevenness
- Support clearer-looking pores and reduce congestion
- Brighten dullness and enhance radiance
- Help other products absorb more effectively (when used appropriately)
Understanding Different Types of Skincare Acids
Not all acids function the same way. While some acids exfoliate the skin’s surface, others work by regulating pigment pathways, calming inflammation, or supporting tone correction without exfoliation. Understanding these differences is essential for safe routine building and long-term skin health.
Glycolic Acid (AHA – Alpha Hydroxy Acid)
Glycolic acid is a water-soluble exfoliating acid derived from sugar cane. It works by loosening dead skin cells on the surface, improving the look of texture, brightness, and overall smoothness.
Key characteristics:
- Small molecular size (penetrates quickly)
- Strong surface exfoliation
- Helpful for dullness, rough texture, and uneven-looking tone
Because it is potent, glycolic acid can be irritating if overused or layered with other strong actives. It is best introduced gradually and paired with barrier-supportive hydration—especially in dry or cold climates.
Best suited for: resilient skin, experienced acid users, texture refinement
Salicylic Acid (BHA – Beta Hydroxy Acid)
Salicylic acid is an oil-soluble exfoliating acid that penetrates into pores, making it particularly effective for congestion, blackheads, and acne-prone skin. Unlike water-soluble AHAs, salicylic acid works within the pore lining to help dissolve excess oil and buildup.
Key characteristics:
- Oil-soluble (can penetrate pores)
- Helps reduce congestion and blackheads
- Provides mild anti-inflammatory benefits
Because salicylic acid exfoliates from within the pore, it is often better tolerated by oily or acne-prone skin than stronger surface exfoliants. However, overuse or layering with multiple exfoliating steps can still compromise the skin barrier.
Best suited for: acne-prone skin, clogged pores, blackheads, excess oil
Tranexamic Acid (Brightening & Tone-Regulating Acid)
Tranexamic acid is a non-exfoliating acid that helps reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation by interrupting excess melanin production. Unlike exfoliating acids, it does not thin the skin or rely on surface peeling for results.
Key characteristics:
- Targets discoloration and uneven-looking tone
- Supports the appearance of post-acne marks
- Generally low irritation potential
Tranexamic acid is often well tolerated and can be used alongside other actives when the routine is balanced. It is especially helpful for clients who want brightening support without frequent exfoliation.
Best suited for: uneven tone, post-acne marks, sensitive or reactive skin
Azelaic Acid (Multifunctional Treatment Acid)
Azelaic acid is a gentle, multifunctional acid known for its anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and tone-balancing benefits. It does not exfoliate aggressively but helps normalize skin behavior over time, which can improve the look of breakouts and redness.
Key characteristics:
- Calms the look of redness and irritation
- Supports acne-prone skin through antibacterial benefits
- Helps improve the look of post-inflammatory marks over time
Azelaic acid is commonly used for acne-prone, redness-prone, or sensitivity-prone skin. It performs best with consistent use and a barrier-supportive routine.
Best suited for: acne-prone skin, redness, post-inflammatory marks
Kojic Acid (Pigment-Focused Brightening Acid)
Kojic acid is a non-exfoliating acid derived from fermentation processes. It works by inhibiting tyrosinase, an enzyme involved in melanin production, helping reduce the appearance of dark spots and discoloration.
Key characteristics:
- Targets pigmentation directly
- Often used in low concentrations
- Can be sensitizing if overused or layered poorly
Because kojic acid can increase sensitivity when misused, it should be introduced carefully and supported with adequate hydration and consistent sun protection.
Best suited for: targeted pigmentation care, experienced users with good barrier support
Safety Considerations
Acids can cause irritation if overused or combined with other potent actives. The most common issues come from using too many exfoliating steps at once, introducing multiple new actives simultaneously, or applying acids on a compromised skin barrier.
Before layering acids with other treatments, evaluate your routine using ingredient safety principles, and prioritize hydration and barrier support.
Why Acid Selection and Routine Compatibility Matter
Using multiple acids without understanding their function can lead to irritation, barrier disruption, or diminished results. Exfoliating acids and pigment-regulating acids serve different purposes and should be chosen based on skin needs—not trend popularity.
Professional curation focuses on selecting acids that complement each other within a routine rather than competing for the same function.
For guidance on layering and frequency, refer to our How to Build a Safe Asian Skincare Routine guide.
Esthetician-Curated Acid Products
Vely Beauty Shop selects acid formulations that are gentle yet effective, compatible with a complete routine, and suitable for real Canadian skin conditions. Our approach prioritizes long-term skin health through careful ingredient selection, balanced routines, and consistent barrier support.